France Pilgrimage 2008

Monday, September 22, 2008

It’s the first day of fall. The weather is crisp and cool as we take the metro to Gare du Nord and then leave Paris by train for the one-hour ride to Amens. We are again missing Steve and Maureen, who are remaining in Paris because of Steve’s continuing health issues. It’s cloudy and misty as we arrive in Amiens, and on our walk to the cathedral, it begins to rain.

The restaurant where we hoped to have lunch and avoid the rain is not ready for lunch customers, so we seek shelter in a nearby gazebo where Jane A. gives her talk. It provides helpful and interesting background on the cathedral.

Out of the rain at last, we have a great lunch in a Belgian-inspired brasserie. No, we did not go for the regional specialities (stuffed pigs’ feet, calves head, etc.) but wisely chose pasta (!) or the salade paysanne — quite tasty. We are in the Picardy region for the first time; it has a different feel from either Chartres (near the Loire), Paris, or southern Burgundy. We wish we had more time.

West facade of Notre Dame de Amiens

After lunch it’s on to the nearby cathedral, which is simply stunning. Notre Dame d’Amiens is one of three High-Gothic cathedrals remaining, Chartres and Reims being the other two. Due to its great height, and open construction (made possible by architectural advances in the late 12th century), its exterior exhibits a particular loveliness and grace even as it impresses with its majesty and drama. Sadly, it is also showing signs of neglect inside (cobwebs, dust, soot, missing marble tiles in the floor, rusty iron work), even as a major investment is clearly being made in renovating the exterior of the cathedral.

Nave of Notre Dame de Amiens

The cathedral is dedicated to Our Lady, but its primary relic is the head of John the Baptist (captured in the fourth crusade in 1204 and brought back to Amiens). The main impetus for the construction of the cathedral was to house this relic, thereby attracting pilgrims to the town and the cathedral. The stories illustrated in the windows and interior sculpture panels tell the story of John the Baptist’s life, including the removal of his head at the request of Salome!

The cathedral floor, dating from the 19th century, is composed of black-and-white tiles, which some of us found distracting. The octagonal labyrinth (inspired by one on the Isle of Malta) is intriguing. In contrast to Chartres, we found on arrival that the floor of the cathedral was clear of chairs from the west entry all the way to the transept. Clearly those responsible for this cathedral want the labyrinth to be used, and so we did. (Our attempts to walk the labyrinth were not unimpeded, however, as tourist groups and guides seemed to prefer standing on the labyrinth for their talks, sometimes blocking the way for those who were walking.)

We caught the express train back to Paris. There were large and pressing crowds at the Gare du Nord when we returned, however — perhaps a reflection of a strike affecting the RER B line that serves Charles de Gaulle airport. Our own confusion about purchasing metro tickets and finding the correct platform contributed to a delay in returning to our hotel.

Before supper we gathered to hear the second half of Jan’s talk on the “Catholic Reformation.” Short version: This 16th-century internal effort within Catholicism clarified doctrine, improved education toward the priesthood, tightened the morals of clergy, and mounted a strong missionary program. But the theological challenges posed by Protestantism were denonuced as heresies by the Council of Trent. One interesting tidbit, especially given our current proximity to the Sorbonne: Calvin, St. Francis Xavier (founder of the Jesuits), and St. Vincent De Paul all studied at the Sorbonne at the same time. As we have reviewed the history of the church in France, we have encountered the Sorbonne at almost every turn.

After Jan’s talk, we had Sunday evening supper together at an Italian restaurant a few doors from our hotel. Seeking less butter, cheese, eggs and cream this time, we had minestrone and a green salad. As usual, the table conversation was most pleasant and we retired to bed tired but contented.

One sobering discovery in the shadow of Notre Dame in Paris was the La Mémorial des Martyrs de La Déportation, a small historic site remembering more than 160,000 people who were arrested and deported between 1933 and 1945. These were French, German, and Jewish political prisoners; gypsies; homosexuals; Jehovah’s Witnesses; social misfits; stateless persons; professional criminals; and Jews.

Memorial to the war deported

Approximately half the deported were sent to work in German factories, where they were subjected to harsh working conditions, starvation, torture, and severe punishment, including execution by firing squad. Some were also the subjects of medical experiments. More than half died. Another 76,000, including 11,000 children, were arrested due to anti-semitic persecution. Most were sent to an internment/transit camp in a Paris suburb and were exterminated there or in concentration camps in Germany and elsewhere. Only three percent came back.

At the memorial, a few people at a time were allowed to descend a flight of stairs to a small, stark courtyard and to enter a dimly-lit underground building. An eternal light at the entrance marks the burial place of the ashes of an unknown person. On either side, names of the many concentration camps are inscribed on triangles, behind which are ashes and earth from each of the camps. A long, narrow “hallway” straight ahead is covered on both sides with thousands of tiny lights, one for each person who died.

One light for each person lost

It feels ironic that this place of contemplation and remembrance of the suffering caused by the deportation is across the street from the Notre Dame Cathedral, a beautiful place where the gospel of love is proclaimed.

Pat G.

… I’m just now getting familiar with the coins!

– Pat G.

Sunday, September 21, 2008

Sunday was an unscheduled day for us. We made it a point to attend morning worship at one of the many churches in the area. Jane went to Notre Dame for the international service. Several soloists sang during the service, and the liturgy was conducted in French, English, and Spanish. Jane noted that the cathedral was lit for the service and featured a series of large flat-panel monitors posted on the pillars throughout the nave as an aid to worshippers.

Meanwhile, seven of us walked about 15 minutes west to the Church of St. Sulpice for the parish mass there. We were struck by the different impression we had this morning as compared to our visit a week ago when the skies were grayer. The presence of Sunday morning worshippers along with the candles and other lighting offered a much more spirited and welcoming ambience.

Following the service, those who attended Saint Sulpice, after waiting vainly in hopes of climbing to the organ console to watch the organist play, decided to walk home through the Luxembourg Gardens, a gift of Catherine de Medici to the people of Paris. We enjoyed seeing Parisians jogging, strolling, painting, sunning, eating, and generally enjoying this wonderful park on a wonderful day.

In the park we happened onto a statue of Édouard Branly, whom at least the French credit with the discovery of radioconductive properties (making radio communications possible), and were struck by the strong resemblance of Branly’s profile to that of one of our pilgrims.

Regrettably, Steve and Maureen were unable to join us for either worship or our other outings due to Steve’s continuing illness. He did have a visit, however, from a doctor, who prescribed some medication and suggested some things that might be done by way of a cure.

During the rest of the afternoon one of us went shopping on the île de la Cité, several people saw the sites in Paris from a tour boat on the Seine, and a couple went to L’Orangerie to see Monet’s giant-scale nympheas canvases.

After all had returned, we gathered over wine (purchased during our time in the Macônnaise), cheese, and Orangina to hear Steve W.’s presentation on the Babylonian Captivity of the Papacy in Avignon and the first part of Jan D.’s talk on the Catholic Reformation.

Tired from our explorations, we walked 10 minutes from our hotel to the Odéon district for a light supper (which cost way too much for the food) and an early bed.

Several of us attended the parish mass at the church of Saint Sulpice this morning. The mass was In French, of course, though with the help of a Missal it was possible to follow along reasonably well. Many of the musical elements involved call and response singing, and we could follow the tunes if not the words. The organ accompaniment was wonderful!

And after the service we were treated to a brief concert, including a movement from Franck’s symphony in D minor. Many of those who came for worship stayed, as may be seen from the photo. We had been in the sanctuary before, and it was good to return for worship, experiencing the space in use for its intended purpose.

Saturday, September 20, 2008

While Steve H. and I went in search of Wi-Fi, the rest of the pilgrims took the opportunity to see Chartres at their leisure.  Some took le petit train to visit the sites in the old city. Others returned to the cathedral. Still others went to visit Esplande de la Resistance—an historical walkway honoring and remembering the Chartrain (residents of Chartres) who died in the Resistance. Finally, a few had the good sense to go shopping, although no foie gras is coming home with us (lest it be confiscated by the airport authorities).

About 3:30, we rendezvoused at the hotel and trekked to the train station with all our luggage. The streets were filled with people, partly in appreciation of the glorious weather and partly in anticipation of a festival later that evening.

It was a short train ride back to Paris, but a long haul from Gare Montparnasse through the Metro and Paris streets to find our next hotel.

We fear the Metro steps have incurred permanent damage due to our baggage, especially one fifty-pound suitcase whose owner will remain anonymous.

We were pleasantly surprised to discover that our new hotel is within a very few blocks of the Cluny Square Hotel where we previously stayed. It is an old hotel in an excellent location with a most hospitable staff. It has its idiosyncracies, however. For example, Steve and Pat‘s room was in an adjacent wing served by a tiny, ancient elevator … accommodating just 1 person and 1 suitcase per trip. Atempting to exit the elevator at his assigned floor on the first trip, Steve fell over his baggage, injuring nothing but making a great deal of noise. Fortunately, both the pilgrim and the elevator proved resilient, and no damage was done. 

After settling in for half-hour or so, we went out for a late dinner at a sidewalk café across the street quite near to the west entrance to the Sorbonne. One surpise: the pizza ordered by at least one of us came with an egg in the center.

We returned to our hotel about 10:30 and collapsed into our beds.

Friday, September 19th

We began our day with a lovely breakfast at our hotel complete with fresh fruits, yogurts, eggs, ham, salami, croissants, juices, and hot beverages. All enjoyed the selections with the exception of Steve W., who is still under the weather.

Some of us wandered up the hill to the Cathedral early to attend mass, which was officiated by five priests. No doubt some of these had remained in Chartres overnight following the previous day’s funeral for a local priest. 

Following the service, the pilgrims wasted little time in moving the chairs off the labyrinth, much to the chagrin of the cathedral personnel. In the end they were happy for the help, as the labyrinth is supposed to be open on Fridays for walking.  Several pilgrims walked the labyrinth, but many of us wanted to wait until after Malcolm Miller’s lecture at 10:00. Many other cathedral visitors began to walk this sacred path after we had cleared the way.

Malcolm gave an interesting historical lecture and commentary on the cathedral, with emphasis on the exquisite Chartres stained glass windows.  Tres jolie! We are indebted to him for his insight and the appreciation we gained for the generations contributing to make this sacred space possible and available for prayer and worship.

The pilgrims had a tour of the crypt of the cathedral in the afternoon where we saw the Chapel of the Black Madonna, the first cathedral pillar dating from the 6th century, the 100 foot deep well where during the Middle Ages many women with healing powers were martyred. (It is likely that the well was sacred to the pre-Christian Gauls/Celts from at least 200 B.C.E.) Jane A. was blessed to have co-officiated the sacrament of holy communion in this ancient chapel with Dean Alan Jones of Grace Cathedral, San Francisco, during her first year in Chartres.

During the afternoon, some of the pilgrims went back to the cathedral to explore its sacred beauty and to walk the labyrinth–an opportunity that proved challenging because of the cathedral tourists. In spite of many people’s cluelessness, there were many who clearly understood the labyrinth’s purpose, felt its prayerful invitation, and joined us on the path.

That afternoon we gathered in Steve and Pat H.’s room for vin, fromage, pain, olives, and an interesting “little talk” by Colin on the Rise of the Catholic Faith in France.

The evening included dinner at Le Moulin de Ponceau in the Old City.  It was feast of flavors and delightful conversation.  Unfortunately once again Maureen and Steve could not join us as Steve W. continues to fight what we think is a viral infection.

After dinner we took in Fête de la Lumières.  All around the city were 20 different displays and events highlighting the beauty of the ancient buildings in extraordinary and creative ways: Full-color animation projected onto the sides of buildings accompanied by powerful soundtracks from classical and modern composers. We were also surprised to find the cathedral open and illuminated by candlelight.  The architecture, statuary, and art came alive in a way that declared God’s immanent and transcendent presence.

We returned home exhilarated, enthralled, and exhausted.

We were up before the crack of dawn for our drive from Cluny to Macôn (about 20 minutes). We were scheduled on the 8:30 a.m. TGV (high-speed train) back to Paris. We allowed extra time to fill the tanks on our rental cars and return them before getting on the train. As it turned out, our travels to Macôn were uneventful and we arrived in plenty of time. We had breakfast in the train station before boarding the train to Paris, which was right on schedule. Other than a bit of confusion about our assigned seats, the trip went smoothly.

Our itinerary called for a transfer in Paris by metro from the Gare de Lyon, at which we arrived from Macôn, to the Gare Montparnasse, from which we were to depart to Chartres. While the train and metro system in Paris has many virtues, accommodation for those with physical limitations is not among them. It took about 20 minutes for us to walk from our arrival point to the metro stop (all in the same underground complex), and there were several sets of stairs to be negotiated while pulling our suitcases. We boarded the metro quickly (before the doors slammed shut), changed at Châtelet (after yet more stairs and slamming doors), but made it to our stop just fine. Upon arrival at Montparnasse, after a bit of orientation to the station, we found our train and boarded directly, with about 10 minutes to spare.

The trip to Chartres went smoothly on an uncrowded train. We chatted and napped and enjoyed views of the countryside.

Our hotel in Chartres, the Grand Monarque, is a brief walk from the train station. After checking in, we began our exploration of this charming city of about 40,000 people. The weather has been sunny and cool, and our hotel is about a 5-minute walk from the cathedral. We’ve taken advantage of the proximity and the pleasant weather to explore the winding streets, the charming shops, and the intriguing restaurants and cafés of this modern city with a Medieval heart. One disappointment: Jane A. learned that her favorite restaurant, Maison du Saumon, at which we hoped to dine Saturday evening, had closed due to the retirement of the owner. Fortunately, there are many candidates here for a new favorite!

All of us viewed the cathedral at least from the outside today and were awed by its majesty. Jane A. gave us an introduction to the cathedral and the labyrinth in her “little talk.” At least one of us (Maureen W.) attended worship in the cathedral on Friday evening.

We’re eagerly anticipating further exploration of the cathedral tomorrow, including a lecture by Malcolm Miller, an expert on the windows; a chance to walk on the labyrinth; and exploration of the crypt.

A bonus — dramatic sound and light shows every evening at twenty of the most important historical building and plazas in Chartres. Some of us caught a glimpse of these shows this evening; all of us will enjoy them tomorrow.

Wednesday, September 17th

The day began with a lovely breakfast at the hotel.  During breakfast we learned that Steve W. was not feeling well and decided along with Maureen W. to stay and rest for the day.  Following breakfast the rest of the pilgrims ventured off to explore Romanesque churches and wineries in the vicinity of Macôn. 

The map said one thing and pilgrims discovered another as we sought to find each of the sites we wanted to visit.  But pilgrimage means that one is surprised by the gifts God has to offer us along the way, and we were pleasantly surprised. 

We discovered a lovely church dedicated to St. Vincent de Paul while we were lost in Macôn.  After exploring and enjoying the church, we attempted for a third time to find the road back to the wine route. As we paused in a roundabout to study the map, another angel appeared and showed us the way to our destination.

We stopped for a tasting at Domaine du la Feuillard made by Thomas.  We then sought out a place for lunch per Mdme.’s recommendation.  Chez Eric (a bar/brasserie in Prissé) was closing. But the proprietor said she could offer us terrine and salad.  The terrine, resembling a rustic meatloaf, was a meat surprise (none of us still know what we actually ate)! We found it quite palatable, especially when accompanied by a strong Dijon moutard (mustard). Dessert was the highlight.  Yet another lemon tarte!

The drive in the afternoon led us through the beautiful hill country of Burgundy.  The landscape was arrayed with many vineyards.  In contrast we encountered huge boulders rising up out of the ground like cathedrals announcing their millennial presence. One particular rock was a prehistoric monument called Solutré that rose 395 meters above the earth.

We stopped for a wine tasting in Fuissé at Domaine du Sève.  This winery has been in the family for five generations and Madame was all too happy to share her story and family history.  Certainly this led us to appreciate the flavors all the more! Also in Fuissé was a Romanesque church that had been renovated in the style of a wine cave.

We went back to Cluny for a final evening and preparations for a very early train ride to Chartres the next morning.

Tuesday September 16^th -Taizé

We awoke early in order to go to Taizé for 8:30 a.m. services.  We rushed through a lovely breakfast of croissants, eggs, fresh fruit, and juices and, of course, the wonderfully rich French coffee and tea.

We drove to Taizé, winding our way through narrow country roads and villages to find La Communauté.  A very chilly morning greeted as we arrived at Taizé.  Running a bit late, we hurried into worship, only to have to downshift into silence and worship mode.  A few of us struggled to adjust, but before long were captivated by the beautiful singing and the simple yet profound worship. 

300 people from all around the world were in attendance, accompanied by another 60 Brothers of the Taizé community.

After a delightful service we wandered the grounds until Casa (the Welcome Center) opened.  A Taizé brother from England and a young woman named Melanie, from Germany (she helped to orient us), greeted us.  

Following our orientation we walked to the far side of the grounds to Tent F for our Bible Study, led by one of the brothers. The text was the second creation story from Genesis. The format was an extended, trilingual disquisition by the brother: first in French, then English, then German. The speaker used quite a bit of humor, and it was interesting to follow the wave of laughter as he repeated the joke in each language. 

Pearls from the talk: (which we retained in spite of freezing temperatures)

• When God assigns Adam the task of naming the other living creatures, we find a first intersection of faith and science.
• God’s action in creation is not a response to anything.  It’s an expression of God’s love.
• In Genesis 2 – God creates earth, then heaven–a sign of God’s arriving where we are. We are all living expressions of God.
• God breathes into human beings the Spirit of God’s self, God’s life into our life.
• In the segment about telling Adam and Eve to eat what they please, but not from the Tree of Knowledge, God is telling us that there is more to the garden than consumption.  There is more to life than what satisfies our mouths, our desires.  (Maureen W. disagrees.) Is God also telling us that we don’t have to know everything?
• God is pure love. God can’t do anything but love. Especially, God will not do anything to harm us.

After the Bible study, Steve H. shared “a little talk” about the founding and history of the monastery at Cluny and about the Cluniac reforms of the 10th and 11th centuries.

We then attended noon worship, after which we went to Cormatin for a little lunch and exploration of the region. We spent the rest of the afternoon in Cluny and, following dinner, returned to Taizé for the evening worship.