To the Emerald Isle

Grange Stone Circle near Lough Gur

We began our last day in Ireland by boarding the bus one final time. We took a trip to Lough Gur, home to the largest stone circle in Ireland, Lios na Grainisi, meaning Stones of the Sun, and commonly known as The Grange.  This circle was built about 2000 B.C.E.  by people who bought metal and beaker pottery to Ireland. The largest stone is Ronnach Croim Duibh (the prominent black stone) which is over 13 feet high and is estimated to weigh 4o tons.

East-facing entrance to the Grange stone circle near Loch Gur

The stone circle, like other ones we saw, is aligned with the rising sun at the summer solstice.  The entrance stones are matched by a pair of equally impressive slabs on the southwest side, whose tops slope down towards each other to form a v-shape.  It has been calculated that these stones and the entranceway were aligned with the sunset at the Festival of Samhain.

It is uncertain exactly what worship rituals occured here.  Pastor Jane found it interesting that the circle is encompassed by oak trees, which she talked with our guide about at length, as oak groves were known places of ritual and worship by some of the Druidic clans, particularly the clan at Argyll. It was a marvelous site to visit.

Pilgrims at Bunratty Castle on our last day together

The group then had the afternoon free for site seeing and shopping at Bunratty Castle.  Some of the group had not been able to visit this site at the beginning of our tour, due to flight delays. We had one final dinner in Ireland in various pubs, then returned to our respective B&B’s for packing and story-telling.

We left our comfy and hospitable B&Bs in Clifden after five wonderful days in this village and retraced our steps to Galway City. After a brief stop there for lunch or quick shopping, we continued southward along the coast road towards The Burren. The weather alternated rain and blue sky with clouds. Immediately south of Galway City we looked out over green fields towards Galway Bay and the Atlantic beyond.

Limestone pavements in The Burren

Soon, however, the landscape changed, as we entered the region known as The Burren, an area of rolling hills and vast pavements of exposed limestone, where more than 60 megalithic tombs and monuments are to be found. The limestone was deposited initially as sediments from a vast inland sea that covered the area some 350 million years ago. As the sea receded and the sediments were compressed, the limestone formed. Repeated scraping by glaciers left the limestone exposed, while movement of the earth’s crust caused linear fissures across the pavements in two directions. The result is trapezoidal slabs of limestone bounded on each side by deep grykes. The Burren is simultaneously barren and lush. It is a place where, according to Edmund Ludlow, writing in 1650, “there is not water enough to drown a man, wood enough to hang a man, nor earth enough to bury a man.” And yet its temperate climate and long growing season promote lush vegetation in the areas where soil remains.

Poulnabrone Dolmen

Our first stop was to visit the Poulnabrone Dolmen, a massive stone monument dating from approximately 6,000 years ago. The dolmen is located in a small park maintained by the Office of Public Works. We left the bus and walked a few hundred feet to view the dolmen close-up. As we arrived, however, a fierce wind with driving rain doused all of us. We retreated to the bus, but the drenching had already occurred, and for many, the ride on to the Cliffs of Moher and then to our nights’ lodging near Newmarket-on-Fergus was a damp and uncomfortable one.

Dolmens abound in Ireland. Like this one, they date from roughly the fourth and third millenniums BCE, and appear to have been used as ceremonial sites in connection with a form of ancestor worship. (Excavation at the Poulnabrone site disclosed the buried remains of between 16 and 22 adults and 6 children. Personal items buried with the dead included a polished stone axe, a bone pendant, quartz crystals, weapons and pottery.)

Cliffs of Moher

Damp but undaunted, we continued west to the Atlantic coast to view and contemplate the fabled Cliffs of Moher, which give dramatic evidence of the deep limestone underlayment of this region of Ireland. Occasionally the deep clouds parted to reveal the afternoon sun and a patch of blue sky.

Our route from the cliffs took us through Liscannor and past the Submarine Hotel, so named because Liscannor is the birthplace of John Phillip Holland, builder of the first submarine (U.S.S. Holland) to be commissioned by the U.S. Navy. As our tour group included a veteran submarine officer, this fact was of particular interest.

That evening, we gathered for a lovely dinner at Cahergal House, catered by Noreen McInerny and her family, followed by music and story-telling. Our guide, Dave Hogan, and harper Lynn Saiorse entertained us with lovely music and engaging background about a classical Irish composer, Turlough O’Carolan (1670 – 1738), along with compositions made in the last decade. Hogan pointed out that one effect of the Cromwellian conquest of Ireland (1649-1653), when the English took over Irish lands, was the suppression of the culture of the middle and upper classes, including its art music. Carolan was born just as this suppression was beginning, and during his lifetime his compositions were largely unknown. Lately, they have been rediscovered. So the evening’s music provided another look at the layered historical landscape that had figured in so many ways during our travels.

Dave Hogan and Lynn Saoirse entertaining the Pilgrims

Another wonderful aspect of the evening was hearing Eddie Lenihan tell two stories from his vast collection, stories that featured supernatural experiences such as a house plagued with cats because of a spell cast by a Catholic priest and a set of fireplace tongs bent by a Banshee.

We fell asleep satisfied and mystified, anticipating one more day in Ireland and then our travels home.

Connemara Mountains seen from Roundstone Bog

Wearing his ecologist hat, Dave Hogan took us to the Connemara bogs to look at the history and ecological development of the bog over several milennia. Most visitors to bogs assume they are a creation of nature. Research into the pollen trapped in deep bogs (some as deep as 40 feet) discloses that forests are the natural state of the land now covered by bogs. Several waves of stone-age farming, which the trees were cleared and the land farmed to exhaustion, then abandoned, eventually depleted the agricultural value of the land to the point where only sphagnum moss could thrive. The moss prefers acid soils, and adds acidity of its own, until virtually nothing else can grow. Thus by creating conditions that favored the moss, stone-age agriculture created the bogs which now blanket much of Connemara and vast other areas in Ireland.

Burned gorse on Roundstone Bog

Here, as in many other places in Ireland, shared lands like the bogs are used for pasturage of sheep. In order to improve the nutritional value of the soil, the farmers burn some of the vegetation from time to time so that the sheep will have more grass to eat.

Leaving the boglands, we traveled to the nearby village of Roundstone, a quaint little seaside community (it bills itself as “Ireland’s most picturesque village” – which is quite a claim in a nation filled with picturesque villages). Roundstone has a significant presence of local artists, two of whom (Yvonne King and Rosie McGurran) opened their studios to our group and talked with us about their work.

After lunch we were treated to a lesson in how bodhran (pronounced “boe-rahn”) drums are made, from the premier local craftsman whose drums are sold to musical groups all over the world, including Riverdance.  Several of our group ordered their own drums.  Dave told us that aspiring bodhran drummers are to lock themselves away for six months at the beginning of their tutelage to fully hone their skills.  We wonder how many of our group will consider the challenge.

On Sunday morning, two buses arrived at each B&B, as our group was to divide for the day. The majority visited Kylemore Abbey, site of a Benedictine abbey and school (about which more below). The remaining four of us, accompanied by Dave Hogan, put on our wet-weather gear and hiking boots for the climb up Máméan to visit a shrine to St. Patrick. The site is the destination of pilgrimages occurring several times each year, including on St. Patrick’s birthday and on August 1, the Feast of Luhnasa (which continues in Christian garb the ancient Celtic lunar festival).

Streams in Spate on the climb to Máméan

Given the heavy rain the previous night (in fact, it was raining as we began our climb), the many streams on the surrounding hillsides were “in spate” everywhere we looked, delighting our ears with water music provided by Mother Nature herself, which you can listen to here: Streams in Spate on the Máméan Pass.

The volume and force of the water were sufficient to flood the marked trail from time to time, necessitating care in crossing. The sheep, however, appeared unperturbed.

Crossing the stream

As we climbed, the rain eased and eventually ceased, revealing dramatic views behind us of the Twelve Bens overlooking green pastures and sparkling waters.

Connemara Mountains seen from Máméan

At top of the pass, we arrived at the pilgrimage shrine, posed for a photo in front of the communion table, appreciated the statue of the patron saint standing in front of the small house in which the priest can shelter himself during inclement weather.

As we descended, we were treated to more wonderful views.

Another group visited Kylemore Abbey, an active Benedictine monastic community since the 1920’s.  It was built as a castle in 1867 by Mitchell Henry as a wedding gift for his bride, Margaret.  The Abbey is a beautiful estate encompassing some 40 acres, 6 of which are dedicated as a proper Victorian garden including greenhouses.  There is also a small gothic church complete with pillars of Connemara marble.  The estate is a glorious place to visit, especially on a sunny day.

In the evening, we enjoyed a lovely catered meal at Vaughan’s Bistro in Clifden, followed by Irish traditional music and dancing. The music featured Irish fiddle players the Kane Sisters, with our guide Dave Hogan on the tin whistle. Dancing was done by Steven Coohill and Shauna Keaney, each 14 years of age and quite accomplished. Jigs, hornpipes, and reels, oh my!

The trip began with a 45 minute ferry ride across Lough Corrib. Lough Corrib Is a fresh-water lake which covers 68 square miles. It is the largest lake in the Republic of Ireland. Theerry master is a local man who knows the lake and its history quite well. He even wrote a booklet about it for the many visitors who come to the island.

Ferry

Inchagoill Island is one of 365 islands on this vast lake. Inchagoill comes from 3 Irish words, ‘Inis an Ghaill,’ meaning island of the foreigner. This island is home to some ancient monastic ruins dating back to the 5th century.

The first is known as Teampall Na Noaimh, meaning Church of the Saints. It was built by the Augustinian monks in 1180 C.E. The archway on the church features the saints of Lough Corrib, but does not make a full half circle, thus must have come from an earlier time period.

Arch entrance Church of the Saints

There is a Byzantine cross on the interior wall – a cross that was the inspiration for the Celtic cross. The altar is placed on the east wall where the Celts would have worshiped the rising sun. (All of the pilgrims at this point are ready to bow down to do our own Sun worship, if only the Godess would stay around long enough for us to do so.)

There is a bullann just inside the entrance which I wondered if it was used for baptism. Our guide Dave Hogan let us know it was used for grinding roots and lichen to make dye for ink and dying clothing and vestments.

There is a second ruin of another church. It is believed that St. Patrick and his nephew came to the village of Cong in the middle of the 5th century. The Druids banished hi to Inchagoill Island.while building their church his sister Lugna died. The stone marking her grave stands nearby. A yearly mass is celebrated on the island in memory of the saints of Corrib–those who are buried there, those who have lost their lives on the lake and those who sail the waters today.

Ruins of Colman Monastery

Stone Marking St. Patrick Sister's grave

We lunched in the village of Cong, a charming little town where the 1954 movie, The Quiet Man, was filmed. Cong is also the site of a medieval abbey, which we were privileged to visit. The cloisters and fishing house are particularly charming in their location and stature.

Cong Abbey Entrance

View of Gleeb Stone Circle

On the way to Clifden, we stopped to visit a great stone circle, Gleeb, dating back to Neolithic times. Beyond were remnants of  two other stone circles. The cows joined in our chorus of hymns as we celebrated the joys of the day with worship.

“The first item on the agenda of the first meeting of any new Irish organization is a split.”
– Brendan Behan, via Dave Hogan

Seen on a trash bin in Galway City: “Life’s a party, and yet you’re reading a bin.” (Via Diane Rew.)

Pilgrims board the ferry for Inishbofin

Inishbofin, an island lying about 45 minutes by ferry north northwest of the Connemara Peninsula in the Atlantic, means “Island of the White Cow” (bo-fin). Our guide, Dave Hogan (some of us have taken to calling him Professor Hogan), explained that references to the cult of the White Cow are widespread in early Celtic Ireland. Indeed, the name of the Boyne River, in whose valley the great earthworks at Newgrange, Knowth, and Douth are located, also references the white cow, and the inference is that the cult was widespread in Ireland in the millennium or so before the arrival of Christianity.

Cromwell

Inishbofin’s location made it of strategic importance in the Middle Ages because it contains one of the very few safe harbors in the region. Whoever controlled the island controlled marine traffic, whether for war or for commerce. An indication of the island’s importance is the ruins of a fortress built by the Cromwellians to guard the entrance to the harbor.

The ferry ride was choppy, as a weather system was moving in from the west, but the captain was skillful and no one got seasick on the 45-minute passage. (In addition to our group, the passengers included a bride, groom, photographer, and others participating in a wedding on the island, scheduled for the following day.)

The day was rainy (though the locals would admit only that it was “a bit damp”), but outdoor activities were all that was offered … so we partook! We hiked beside a

Farmhouse on a freshwater lake on Inishbofin

lovely inland lake, past ancient stone walls behind which sheep safely grazed, and looked out over the rocky seacoast and green pastures. Then we were off the road and up onto a rock-studded hillside of heather. Closer inspection showed that the protruding rocks were the remains of field demarcations dating from the Neolithic Age. We realized we were roaming the farming fields enclosed by inhabitants of the island millennia before.

Open-air lunch on Inishbofin

After an open-air lunch (the rain stopped briefly) spent perched on outcroppings of stone overlooking the sea, we continued up the road until we came to a great sea-cave formed when the rocky substrate that had supported the meadow gave way thousands of years ago.

Descending to the Sea Cave

After exploring the cave and taking many photographs, we retraced our steps, pausing at the island’s only hotel for a cup of tea and conversation before catching the 5:00 ferry – the last of the day – and our bus-ride back to Clifden.

We had a lovely day basking in Brigit’s Garden. The garden is the vision of Jenny Beall, a woman originating from Sussex England who is dedicated to ecology and the preservation of the earth. This garden is laid out paying attention to the Celtic cycles of creation. The Celtic calendar begins on October 31st.

The first cycle is that of darkness. In this cold, dark season of the year, creation begins to be formed in the earth beneath the soil, visible in the mind of the Creator and taking shape in small ways in the same way that human life is knit together in the darkness of the womb and held tenderly in the hopes and dreams of the parents. The Celts celebrate this cycle with the festival of Samhain, (pronounced Sow-en) meaning death and promise. The Samhain garden is enclosed by a long grassy bank in the shape of a sleeping woman, representing the earth in its winter rest. A figure of a woman of leaves, cast in bronze, rests in the shelter of the island. The pool is enclosed by a ring of birch trees, reflecting the stark simplicity of the season.

The second cycle is Creation which pairs with the season of spring. This season is celebrated with the festival Imbolic (pronounced Im-ulk). The birth of lambs and the first snowdrop blossoms celebrate this new season of life. Imbolic garden has a path that leads through a wildflower meadow, studded with apple, pear, and plum trees, to a children’s area with basket swings.

The third cycle is the season of Light, the bright half of the year and the beckoning of summer. This season is celebrated with the great fire festival Bealtaine (pronounced Beltana). This is a time of sexual awakenings, marriages and the adventures of young adulthood. Nestling in the mound is Diarmund and Gráinne’s bed, a grassy hollow where the mythical lovers can rest under the stars.
Magnificent granite standing stones lead the processional path to the throne made of 5,000 year old bog and yew. Our guide, Moya, read a poem to us from Eaven Boland illustrating a parent’s struggle to let their daughter leave the innocence of childhood and grow into womanhood and claiming a life independent of their keeping.

The last Celtic cycle marks the season of harvest and thanksgiving, paralleling our own Thanksgiving. It is marked with the festival of Lughnasa (pronounced Loo-nasa). Named after Lugh Lamh Fhada, the mythical hero Tuatha dé Dannan, time of plenty and celebration. The garden is composed of vegetable beds laid out in spiral shapes, flanked by pots of herbs. There are grassy mound circles for dancing and a huge oak tree to feast under. It is a time to celebrate and give thanks for all of Creation’s good gifts.

Three young yew trees stand outside the exit from this garden, symbolizing the moment of death and the possibility of re-birth. A new cycle now begins.

It’s hard to put a wise head on young shoulders.

What kind of music does a leprechaun band play? Shamrock and roll!

Why does the population of Ireland keep growing? Because its capital is always Dublin.

Entrance to Newgrange

The day began with a visit to Newgrange. Newgrange is an ancient Neolithic site, 5000 years old: 300 years older than Stonehenge and 500 years older than the Great Pyramid of Giza. It is a UNESCO World Heritage site. It is comprised of 97 kerb stones surrounding a great mound “tumulus” containing an Irish passage tomb. There is a single chamber on the inside, which we entered. Above the entrance is a roof box through which the sunlight can enter to illuminate the chamber on a single day each year. One function of Newgrange appears to have been to allow the ancient peoples who perhaps built it to tell exactly when the winter solstice occurred. On that day, a single beam of light coming through the roof box would illuminate the chamber floor for a short time. The builders marked its radiance by staying inside the darkened room for several days, charting the differing places the sunbeam fell. We know that throughout time Newgrange was used both as a burial site and as a place of worship and ceremony.

Largest tumulus at Knowth

Stone carving at Knowth

Newgrange is only one of three monumental passage-tomb sites located withinsight of each other in the Boyne River Valley in eastern Ireland. The other of the two that we visited was Knowth, which is slighty larger than Newgrange and features multiple mounds “tumuli.” Knowth was impressive mainly for its scale. The site is not in as good condition as Newgrange, due to its having been disturbed multiple times over the millennia. Still, the many intricate stone carvings, along with the scale and number of the mounds, convey vividly the deep devotion of that mysterious ancient culture which decided to express its quest for meaning in this way.

Stone fortress at the top of the Hill of Tara

The final visit of the day was to the Hill of Tara. This is a sacred place occupied by both neolithic peoplesand ancient Irish. Here festivalsand a number of different rites were celebrated. The High Kings of Ireland united and fought on this land. It continues to be a place of pilgrimage for many of people who revere its heritage.

Interior passage, tumulus, Hill of Tara